2.02.2008

Pigs and Publisher and Goats, Oh My

Oh, it’s been an interesting couple of days in a pretty funny Peace Corps kind of way.

To all my current and future fellow lovers of publication design and the Adobe Creative Suite, I must confess. I used Microsoft Publisher. No, it’s worse. I installed it on my computer. I feel horrible about it, but, aside from the fact that it’s not available here (literally or cost-wise), inDesign just isn’t sustainable in the Peace Corps. Oh man, could you imagine trying to teach people who don’t know how to set a margin in Word about all the beautiful complexities of graphic design software. I used it for my official Peace Corps business card, but I’m also about to get roped into to building a brochure for Fundelosa about the chocolate factory they are getting ready to launch.

Friday, I woke up and sat outside drinking my morning café con leche. Sitting there, I noticed there were six or so goats hanging around the house, and I thought to myself Hey, I wonder why there are so many chivos hanging out today. And then it left my mind and I went to the office to install (as previously confessed) Publisher on my computer and the desktop at the office. When I came home for lunch, I figured out about those goats. Their skins were on the ground. Their heads on the cement table. Their bodies chopped up into five-gallon buckets. Two hundred fifty pounds of chivo in all.

Saturday, I woke up to a ruckus (which is sadly normal here, but this was a special, extra-hurried ruckus) and discovered that the pregnant pig in the posigla out back had gone into labor and was dar-ing luz to an indeterminate number of puercitos. I really wanted to watch so I grabbed my camera and headed out to watch the action. All said and done, she delivered 11 piggies, but one died mid-term (they chucked it into the foliage with the placenta for the dogs…). I got some great pictures!

After that, at noon, we went to some crazy neighborhood block party and proceeded to eat the 250 pounds of previously slaughtered goat. And drink. And dance. And sit around for 7 hours listening and dancing to merengue and bachata. Rob came and visited for the day and then stayed the night in a neighbor’s extra bed. He got in on the goat and rum action as well, checked out the pigs and we ate fried chicken and tostadas (grilled ham and cheese sandwiches) for dinner.

Today was a long day (SUNDAY) of meetings at the office (SUNDAY, did I mention it’s SUNDAY?). We were there from 9-5. It was in Spanish. Meetings in Spanish are still generally indecipherable for me. I’m exhausted.

Oh, and I learned a new phrase today.

To fart is hacer peo. Hehhehhehehe.

Daily Life

What’s it like here? Well, this changes depending on what stage I’m in. Training in Santo Domingo was different than in CBT; my first month here, before my diagnostic, was different than now; right after my IST in February will be different from now as well as different from whatever routine I might settle into as my work and projects get underway. However, since you asked…

I usually wake up around 630 or 7 to a racket, and then doze until 8 or so if I can tune out the banging and shouting and rearranging of furniture that defines campo mornings. Then I usually lay around until about 830 before getting out of bed. Sometimes I go to the Fundelosa office in the mornings, but since I don’t really do anything there yet I get bored quickly. Sometimes I wander around the community in the morning visiting people or doing various errand-y tasks. Sometimes I stay at home, drink a coffee, tidy up my room, do laundry, take a shower, read/write, etc.

Either way, lunch is at noon and I usually eat at 1230. Camp life stops from 12-2, so sometimes after lunch I take a siesta (two things on this: 1) They don’t use siesta here. They say echar una pavita, which roughly translated means “To throw a little turkey,” but echar is a verb that doesn’t translate well and has many meanings. 2) Contrary to popular belief, my experience has been that Dominicans don’t nap and they find me peculiar for doing so.)

Usually I work on my surveys (at this writing, 70 out of 100 are completed) from 2-5ish, and then I meander back up home. Dinner is usually around 630 and then I hang around until 830 or 9 when I go to my room for the night. Sometimes I go right to sleep, but usually I read or write for a while.

It’s not that I have anything against hanging out with the family, but the TV they watch bores me to tears (and the chairs are really uncomfortable, and they change the channel constantly), and if it’s not TV it’s some mundane conversation entirely void of details that I can’t follow. So I get bored and go to my own thing.

Sometimes I have to go the pueblo and that eats at least half a day. More if I am accompanying a Dominican.

Here are some examples of meals here:

Breakfast:

Either fresh-squeezed juice or a hot drink made from pureed and strained oatmeal (rather tasty but I’d rather have a bowl of oatmeal AND either two pieces of bread (like a dinner roll) or a pack of saltine crackers roughly the quantity of three graham crackers, sometimes with squeaky cheese. I also usually make myself a coffee.

Lunch:

Salad (shredded cabbage, sometimes with shredded carrots or a cucumber or beets) with oil, vinegar and salt. Meat, usually pork or chicken. Rice (white, seasoned or with beans/lentils). If the rice doesn’t have beans/lentils, sometimes there are habichuelas (red beans in a yummy sauce). Sometimes there is a scary looking but tasty eggplant dish or yummy potato salad instead of rice. But that’s pretty much the extent of the variety for lunch.

Dinner:

Two piece of bread (same as breakfast) with the hot oatmeal drink again; cream of wheat (except its made with corn); or fried ham or salami and tostones or other root vegetable.

Yep. That’s a pretty thorough summary of my diet here. Notice the 3 square meals and 6 servings of fruit and vegetables. Maybe when I’m on my own. To be fair, though, having talked to several people from my training group this week, my situation in general with my host family is relatively good in comparison. It will still be a challenge to stay until May when I can move into my own place, but at least I know it could be worse.

Fat?

Twice so far today I’ve been told I’m bien gorda (pretty chubby) and it’s only noon. Apparently Dominicans stand by their practice that clothes only fit well if they are so tight you can see goosebumps through the fabric. I’m wearing a really cute cap-sleeve, empire waist peasant-y blouse thing Kyle sent me. I think I look cute, so they can keep their too-small spandex and we will all be happy. I understand that being called gorda here, if not a compliment per se these days, is not an insult, and I am not actually offended in the least. However, I do use these moments as an opportunity for cultural exchange and explain that Americans, especially women, are not flattered if you point out that they are chubby or have put on weight.

And anyways, I don’t even think I’ve gained weight. Last I checked at the end of November, I had lost 8 pounds since leaving the States. It’s possible that I gained a bit of it back (thanks to all the Starbursts and cookies I eat), but everything still fits, so whatever.

Aralen

Oh, before I forget. Last week I met Bartolome Colon (o algo asi), pitcher for the Anaheim Angels (I think… definitely a pitcher for an Angels team, but I’m uncertain about the Anaheim part). Apparently he is from Alta Mira and was in town for a visit. How strange to come into the “central” part of my campo community and find THREE brand-new HUMMERS parked in front of the colmado. One of them even had California plates. Now, please tell me, even if you are rich and famous, why would you go to the trouble of taking a car on an international flight for a vacation?

In other news, four whole months into the Peace Corps-mandated weekly Aralen regimen, I had my first “Aralen” dream. Now, if you feel morbidly compelled to read reviews of this malaria-fighting drug (Dan Beigh gleefully did extensive research before I came here), there are some pretty interesting stories. Suffice it to say that one of the more common side effects is extremely vivid—almost hallucinatory—dreams. Normally I take my Aralen in the morning, so it must wear off enough by nighttime. Yesterday, though, I took it right before bed and had this crazy dream that I rescued a puppy (whose name I couldn’t remember) and a newborn kitten. I then put them in the bathroom and “nursed” them back to health by checking on them once a week. I was distraught at how skinny and sickly they were. It was odd though, because I was both inside and outside of the dream, knowing the whole time that it wasn’t real, but still being upset by it. So now I have another notch on my Peace Corps Moments bedpost.

1.18.2008

In the Capital

Hey, that's funny. I've already used this title before.

So I've been out of my site since Tuesday early and it is now Friday almost lunchtime. First I was in Santiago for a regional meeting, and Wednesday I came into the capital with my "neighbor" Rob. It wasn't totally a lazy few days, since I did take care of some administrative stuff (replace lost debit card, have business cards printed, pick up packages, talk to APCD), but also we have definitley gotten in some good internet time, watched a couple of DVDs, ate snacks, went out to eat, rested. It was lovely.

I need to get back to my site, and continue working on my diagnostic (surveys, etc) but it has been nice and refreshing to be out. Other times that I've been out of my site I always felt a little stressed and anxious for some reason, but I have felt a lot better this trip.

Once I get back to site, I need to continue working on my diagnostic and stuff. I got the information from my APCD (peace corps boss) so now I have the guidelines and stuff for the report and presentation, and that will be a pretty extenstive thing to write up once I finish collecting all the information. Once I have everything done maybe I'll email stuff to those who are interested.

So interesting things that are coming up in the world of Peace Corps... The first weekend in February is "Committee Weekend" when all the various extracurricular committees have their quarterly meetings. I think I'm going to go to the Gender & Development and Celebrando Cibao (a regional conference on diversity issues) and then also participate in the Gringo Grita (the un-official PCDR magazine). That will be a day or two. Then Feb 13 for a week is my 3-month In Service training in La Vega, where I'll present my diagnostic stuff and do my work plan for my first year of service. I got invited to be on the gringa this cycle, but their production week is exactly during my IST and i HAVE to go to IST, so I think I'm going to start working with the magazine the next time it gets to publishing time.

Anyhow, I might be away from internet for a while but next time I hit a WiFi zone, I'll be in touch. Thanks again for everything, and keep me posted on developments at home!!!

Hasta Luego!
Kira

1.16.2008

PACKAGES!

I LOVE YOU! YOU GUYS ARE WONDERFUL AND AMAZING!

Many, many packages got delivered in my hot little hands today!

Two packages from Megan and Justin
One package from Uncle Dennis and Linda
One package from Kathy Carbone
One package from KyleAnne and Sharon Mabey
One package from my Mom

Including, lots of books, some clothes, candy, magazines, snacks, toiletries all sorts of wonderful goodies. Thanks to all of you who have been thinking of me and sending packages. I can't even remember everything that was there, it was definitely like Christmas day. I am so touched and excited. I got so many goodies that I'm not going to be able to bring everything back to my site all at once!!! Don't feel bad though, I am definitely NOT complaining.

At the risk of being very, very boring, I'm going to list the titles of books I received to prevent doubling up.
The Choice by Nicholas Sparks
This is Not Chick Lit by Elizabeth Merrick
To Feel Stuff by Andrea Seigel
Feeling Sorry for Celia by Jacklyn Moriarty
Getting Over It by Anna Maxted
Spitting Feathers by Kelly Harte
The Family Tree by Carole Cadwalladr
Daughters of Fortune by Isabelle Allende
Paula by Isabelle Allende
Midwives by Bohjalian
Even Cowgirls Get the Blues by Tom Robbins
Life of Pi by Yann Martel
The Rainmaker by John Grisham
Lucky You by Carl Hiaasen
Tell No One by Harlan Coben
The Girls Guide to Hunting and Melissa Bank
The Sotires of Eva Luna by Isabelle Allende
A Breach of Promise by Anne Perry
Of Love and Shadows by Isabelle Allende

Other highlights included some much needed new pants and socks, some lotions, bug stuff, hand sanitizer and, did I mention I got SNACKS???? hehehehhehehe.

You guys are amazing, thank you so much!
Love,
Kira

1.15.2008

Reflecting

Can you believe it? I’ve been in Peace Corps, in the Dominican Republic, for four months already. WOW. I made it through training, my first holiday season away from my family and friends, living in a new culture and language, two tropical storms, several rough days, mosquitoes, cockroaches, spiders, wading through rivers that should be creeks, blasting music and prayer on the radio and countless other expected and unexpected challenges. However, my Spanish is getting better every day. I’m meeting people and learning connections within my community every day (for example, who is family with who, married to who, and children of who). I’m making progress on my diagnostic. Yesterday was special because one of the women in the community, after I did the interview with her, told me that I had confianza with their family and whatever I needed or questions I had I could go to them. This is a really big deal because confianza (trust) is the foundation of society in Dominican culture, and until you have it, you really will not be able to be effective in anything. I think they grant you the benefit of the doubt at first and give you a little bit to get started, but it was really fulfilling to hear from this family that I was “in.” One family in many – I have a lot to go – but there is success in even small accomplishments.

I am tempted to count the number of new people I have met, but I cannot begin. Between my training class of volunteers, the training staff, PC staff, host families, other volunteers and all the people in my community and the communities of the volunteers whom I have visited, it would be very difficult (and boring for you guys to read). But, suffice it to say that I am meeting more people than ever before in my life.

Even though I am less communicado here than I had hoped – getting to the internet is time consuming and expensive, cell phone reception is spotty, and calling internationally is expensive (but thank you oodles to those of you who have splurged on special occasions to call me for a few minutes, it means the world!), I wanted to say how grateful I am for the support of my friends and family (and even a few nice strangers who have stumbled upon my blog and enjoyed reading about my adventures) back home. Thank you to all of you who have e-mailed, called and sent packages, letters and cards. I know life is moving at light speed for you guys and that you have taken the time out of your days to send your love my way makes everything so much easier. I wonder sometimes about volunteers who might not have the support of their families and friends, and am amazed that they can do it. I know not everyone exactly understands me or my path in life (including myself!), but what a nice gift that I have so much support in spite of that.

In the last, oh, ten years or so, one of the things that I have struggled with in myself is finding a place of acceptance in the quirks and differences in the people who are close to me… in the places in common and the places where understanding cannot be found… in the choices and priorities that we don’t understand about each other… in the different goals and directions we take. I have been searching for a way to think about the people I love and who love me that accepts them the way they are while recognizing that nobody is, or will ever be, exactly what you want them to be (including ourselves). This is probably a life-long process, but my short time in Peace Corps so far has reminded me of someone I think I have always known. My family is my family, we have our problems, but in the end, it’s home. Same for my friends. There will always be drama, tensions, whatever. But living in a community where nobody knows me or my history and where I don’t know theirs; living in a country where “how it’s done” is quite elusive, I really appreciate how comfortable and familiar and comforting it is to have people who know you on many different levels and have been through life with you.

In training I didn’t have that much time to read because we were in “class” from 8-5 every day and I was actually going to sleep at 830 or 9 pm because I was so tired, but since I’ve been at my site I have been reading at a pace a little faster than a book a week. This has its ups and downs. The downside, obviously, is that reading material is hard to come by in the campo (but thanks to those who are sending books, and also there is a library at the PC office I can get books from), but the upside is great. I’m reading fiction, and non-fiction; English and Spanish (although mostly English still); and I’ve been reading books recommended to me that I might never otherwise have stumbled upon. All have been interesting; several have been inspiring and educational about current events and world politics. Here they are:

The Guy Not Taken by Jennifer Weiner

In the Time of the Butterflies by Julia Alvarez

Monique and the Mango Rains by Kris Holloway

Prep by Curtis Sittenfeld

Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert

Naked by David Sedaris

The Kite Runner by Khaled Hosseini

Mountains Beyond Mountains by Tracy Kidder

Three Cups of Tea by Greg Mortensen and David Oliver Relin

I’d say the best so far, and maybe one of the best books I’ve ever read, is The Kite Runner. It’s fiction but based in fact, riveting, touching, and it tells a story in the Afghanistan/Pakistan conflict in a way that puts you in touch with the reality of life. But it doesn’t read like an essay on current events (which for me makes all the difference). Anyway, I highly recommend it. I’m going to keep this list going throughout my service. I figure it will be interesting to have a record of all my reading when I finish, and never in my life am I going to have the opportunity to read so voraciously.

Man, I gotta keep these entries shorter. You guys must get exhausted by the end. Until next time!

I love you!